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The Ancient Ways

The Saint's Way by the River Fowey in Cornwall is a story written into the land. This  ancient route existed long before it was used by saints, taking advantage  of the unique shape of Cornwall and its rivers.

Troytown MazeEvidence in ancient artforms, such as Pictish art or the 'Troytown maze' found on all westward European coastlines, suggest that Phoenicians, Egyptians and Greeks journeyed to west coasts of Britain even before the Iron Age, in search of Keltic wisdom and trade. They would hit Cornwall and Southern Ireland first. Some sources even nominate Cornwall for the site of the 'Golden Fleece', a story made famous by Jason and the Argonauts.

Gold travelled down from Ireland through Cornwall and on to the Mediterranean via sea or through Brittany to the early centres of civilisation. Before the River Camel and the River Fowey in East Cornwall became silted through tin streaming they were navigable much further inland. Prior to tin mining there would have been only a four mile gap overland between the north coast River Camel (at Padstow) and the South Coast River Fowey. This is a serious short-cut to the alternative of travelling right round the peninsula of Cornwall with its dangers of rocks, ridiculous and unpredictable seas and weather and hungry pirates.

Copper followed the same route and the Romans later followed the supply back to Britain. In terms of history, Cornwall doesn't really exist until the end of the Dark ages in 900AD or so, when the English started 'invading'. In war, the victors always get to write the history books. Hence the history of Cornwall before this point is lost, but there are still many clues built into the land. Cornwall was a Celtic land that had its own history before being part of England. Despite 1000 years of what is described by some as cultural genocide and ethnic cleansing by the English it still retains a uniqueness in people and places. It was one of the earliest civilised trading nations, more linked by sea with Ireland, Wales and Brittany than by land with England.

'Restormel' the Castle of The Black Prince, overlooks the once highest navigable point of the river Fowey, an ancient site. Like Castle D'or , once used as a title for one of Daphne DuMaurier's books, it is likely to be pre-iron age. When you look at a map a whole line of pre Roman age encampments follows the river route across land, with one site perched next to the once highest navigable point of the Camel - in Dunmere woods. This suggests that this route was an important one to protect - because it was always a main artery for precious metals.

The existing Saints Way follows the river route across East Cornwall, which was established long before the Saints as a convenient short-cut between Ireland and Wales and the south coast of Cornwall - and on. The way is rich in springs and many Holy Wells are still to be found. The Church at Lanlivery, a visible route sign from many miles away, sits high on the horizon, a beacon for travellers. It lines up with the saints' pathway to ancient standing stones at Helman Tor an evident meeting place from Stone Age times. The Church at Lanivet beckons the traveller on to where the route meets the river Camel at Ruthernbridge and then continues North to Padstow.

Like the songs of Aborigines, the peoples who once travelled these lands would learn the route through stories of the wayplaces they would meet. And sometimes, when its quiet, the land still whispers these secrets to willing ears.

Secrets of the ValleyI have heard these secrets whispered to the land and written them into a novel, 'Secrets of the Valley'.

They are burning to be heard.

Posted Feb 2, 2006   
 
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